Replacing the Guibos. Anybody who has one of these cars for any length of time, will sooner or later need to replace the 'Guibos' or doughnuts on the propshaft.  The purpose of these is to allow for flex in the driveline without the harshness inherent in a CV or universal joint.  The downsides are that being rubber they do dry out over time regardless of use and will fail eventually.  The other downside is that unlike a CV or universal joint they are also inclined to fail in a stealth mode, i.e., nothing wrong, nothing wrong, POP! Bearing this in mind I check mine periodically.  The first time I did, this is what I found: This, obviously meant time to do something about it.  No point in just doing one, so all three and the centre bearing were up for the job.  As a point of interest, according to Kevin in EBSpares there are two different sizes of bearing even for the TS, so I had to wait 'till I measured mine before I could order a replacement.  Seeing as everything was coming out at that time I resolved to also do the main DeDion bushing, and to rebuild the shift linkage too. Once you get the car up high enough (I love using ramps at the back) and unbolt everything, getting the propshaft out is straight-forward enough, even if a little bit muscle-power is needed in addition to finese. (See the first part of here for more details). When I got the propshaft out, I was a little surprised, shall we say, at the state of my 'Guibos'. I particularly like the one at the top of the picture which was being held together by the propshaft itself and nothing else.  It looked OK when I was under the car, but when I took it out the entire doughnut just fell to bits. Balance. Now at the risk of starting a war in the 75 world, I will say there are two schools of thought about keeping track of the nuts and bolts that come off the prop-shaft.  The accepted wisdom is that the position of every bolt and its associated washer and nut is crucial to the balance of the shaft as a whole.  Each bolt, washer & nut should go back in the position whence it came or the balance will be out out and you'll loose the fillings in your teeth and break your back.  Now, I think that is overkill.  Having swapped the engine out, and previously the clutch, I just don't see how the prop-shaft cannot be balanced independently of either the clutch or the motor; and the Alfa manuals themselves recommend/insist that you use new Nylok nuts on the shaft when you remove or rebuild it.  Which makes the accepted practice smack slightly of voodoo.  Perhaps both parts of the shaft need to stay in the same orientation relative to each other and, at a push, perhaps the bolts might need to retain their position, but anything else seems too much of a stretch. Of course, having said that, I am a total pussy and marked every bolt, nut, washer and yoke, and put them all back in the same position :-)  So sue me! In the photo above you can see the new guibos in position.  They still have their retaining straps on which makes fitting them much easier.  Once the shaft has been refitted, you simply snip them off. DeDion Bushing. To get to this bushing (this is with the shaft already off remember), simply unbolt the rear cross-member from the DeDion triangle and fashion a pusher/puller tool from a set-screw, some BIG thick washers and a suitable receiver for the bush. Push the bushing out from beneath into a suitable receptor, either a huge socket, or a piece of pipe (which I did).  Pull it back in from the top. While the cross-member is out,clean, treat and respay it.  You might as well! By the way, a huge thanks to my brother John who gave me loads of help figuring out how to get my original bushing out.  The rubber in the original had deteriorated into a morass of tarry glue-like awfullness which just about had me beat.  John rescued me with some gouging tools, and the tool pictured above.  Many thanks Bro! Rattly Gearstick. Another really common problem.  While I had everything apart I decided to also approach this irritant.  When I took the front of the shift mechanism apart, this is what I found. Which makes it pretty obvious why I was having a problem! Another close-up of the pin connecting the gear-stick to the linkage shows just how worn it had become over time.  Excuse the poor quality of the picture.  Only solution was to replace it with an available alternative.  I just used a similar bolt to the existing one, cut to size.  It's worked lovely ever since. I subsequently rebuilt the entire shift mechanism with parts bought in from Alfa75Parts.  Alternatively you can get them from Andy in performatek, for some reason known as the 'Monkey Shifter Kit'.  I don't even pretend to know why.  Here is a really bad phone-photo of my totally rebuilt linkage and the bits I replaced.