Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to work... So, obviously, the first step was to get 'Ricambi' into the car-port for work to start.  Then the usual steps of jacking her up and supporting her.  Given the extent to which the tin-worm had been allowed to take hold, I considered it prudent to forgo the uncertain (huh) support of the jacking points :-) and use instead the De-Dion tube and the front lower wishbones. Next step was to remove the exhaust, and this is where I had a rather pleasant surprise.  It transpires that 'Ricambi' was fitted with an ANSA SS exhaust front to back, and I'd never noticed before!  Thank you very much, I'll have that! So then, off with the centre crossmember in order to disconnect the gear linkage from the gear-stick.  Then I unbolted the rear guibo from the clutch yoke.  Next I unbolted the rear crossmember and jacked up the rear up the De-Dion in order to drop the front of the transaxle a bit.  Once you do this, I find, a couple of rotations of the propshaft will break its connection to the clutch yoke.  Let that hang clear of the tranny, and undo the bolts at the front guibo.  Undo the rear engine mount and finally undo the centre bearing and let it hangclear of its mountings.  To remove the propshaft you have to move it to the rear of the car while keeping it clear of the tranny and of the engine rear mount/bellhousing.  I find the best way to do this is by lying on my back in line with the propshaft with my head under the motor and my feet supporting the far end of the shaft.  At this stage I always find myself thinking about those documentaries on sea-otters, and the way they crack shellfish on their chest using a rock.  The positioning is near identical :-) Anyway, once that was out I got my second pleasant surprise; all three guibos were in remarkably good order and had obviously been replaced recently enough.  Ditto the front gear-box mounts!  Cool! Next, the engine bay.  Good old Craig had specially emailed me the relevant parts of the manuals about engine removal, and if you follow the recommended steps it's all quite straight-forward. [If you don't know who Craig is, he's a salt-of-the-earth Aussie bloke who hosts this site Craig's Place] The manuals say to unbolt the restraints and allow the bonnet hinges extend fully, but I found it easier just to unbolt the bonnet from the hinges and remove it completely, having first disconnected the wiring to the under-bonnet lighting.  Then it was disconnect and remove the battery, remove all the air-cleaner and associated stuff and the brake vacuum booster tube to the plenum.  Next was the cooling.  Disconnect the bottom hose from the rad and let it pee all over the place :-)  Disconnect the connectors to the temp switch and the cooling fan, undo the pipes to the expansion bottle and the radiator top hose.  Unbolt the mounting at the top of the rad and you should be able to lift it up and out.  Mine was rusted through and leaking in several places, truely horrible! Clamp the fuel delivery and return lines at the appropriate places and disconnect them from the hammering damper and the fuel return valve.  Remove the accelerator cable by rotating the control cam and unhooking it. Next disconnect all the electrical connections in the sequence the manuals dictate.  Then go back and do all the ones you skipped :-) Nearly there!  Slacken the power-steering tensioner pulley and let the belt slip.  Unbolt the power-steering pump and move it to where the battery used to be.  Then disconnect the side engine mounts top & bottom.  Now disconnect the other electrical connections that you forgot to first time :-) Now get the engine crane :-)))))))) Connect, hook, shove, lift, curse, manouver, lift, then disconnect the other electrical connections that you forgot the first time :-D And.... then.... I AM A GOD!!!!!!!!! So step one down anyway..... Page 5